SUPPORT CENTER

Was a successful calibration completed as per the installation manual (no blinking lights at the end)? This is critical, and without it, AUTO-BLiP will not work as designed. It may be necessary to repeat the process more than once to achieve the desired result. Please review the calibration instructions, special attention to the section right below step 10.

AUTO-BLiP has a self diagnostic tool built-in. It will perform a test at the end of calibration. Any blinking light(s) at the end of calibration indicate an improper conection. Likely, one or more of the below items is causing the issue:

• You are connected to the wrong sensor. Some cars/pedals (Clutch pedal in particular) may have more than one sensor. You need to make sure you are tapping the correct one.
• You are connected to the wrong wire at the correct sensor. Do not just go by wire color, check diagrams if available. Use a voltmeter to confirm it is the correct wire. The difference between Brake/Clutch pedal pressed and pedal depressed should be at least 1 volt, but could be up to 12v. APPS signal wire voltage will fluctuate between ~.5v and ~4.5v. More details on other sections below.
• You are improperly connected to the correct wire. The connector (Posi-tap) is not properly seated. Review Posi-tab user manual located at the top of the Support Center page.

The following  are interpretations of a failled calibration / blinking light(s):

• Blinking BRAKE light - Check Brake switch connection
• Blinking CLUTCH light - Check Clutch switch connection
• Blinking BLIP light - Check connections at the accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS)
• Combination of BRAKE/BLIP lights or CLUTCH/BLIP lights - Check both respective sensors and GROUND connection
• Ground connection - An improper GROUND connection can be reflected as a combination of blinking lights as stated above. Were you connect to GROUND does matter as not all provide the same quality of grounding resulting in ECU misinterpreting signals and issuing engine codes. See 12V and Ground Connections section below.

All blinking lights must be addressed and corrected or Auto-Blip will not work as designed.

Tapping the wrong vehicle wire will definitely result in a failed installation. Vehicle manufacturers aren't always consistent about wiring colors, so it helps to be able to recognize/test the various wires in order to determine you are tapping the correct one. When available, prioritize wire position on the diagram, before wire color. Access to your vehicle wiring diagram may be helpful in some cases.

The use of a voltmeter/multimeter is recommended to identify/confirm the correct wire. See the corresponding sections for voltage readings.

12V and Ground connections should be completed as indicated. Connecting to random 12V and/or Ground sources may result in a failed installation. When accessible, we recommend tapping the back of the OBD2 port for both 12v (Pin #16) and Ground (Pin #4). Use of a chassis ground should be a last recourse, as they may have excesive electrical noise and may not work.

GROUND POTENTIAL

In automotive electronics, "ground" is the reference point for measuring electrical signals. "Same ground potential" means the electrical zero-volt lines of both the Auto-Blip and the Engine Control Unit (ECU) must be at the exact same level.

Why This Matters

Auto-Blip identifies and replicates the correct voltage signal from your car's accelerator pedal sensor before releasing it to the ECU. This tells the engine to "blip" (open) the throttle during downshifts at the precise time.

• The Voltage Reference - The ECU expects highly precise voltages (typically 0.5 to 4.5 volts) to know exactly where the pedal is.
• The Danger of Different Grounds - If the Auto-Blip and the ECU are grounded in different spots (e.g., one on the engine block and one on the chassis), resistance can cause a "voltage drop". This makes their 0-volt reference points different.
• The Result - The ECU will misinterpret the Auto-Blip signal. This can trigger "limp mode," throw engine check codes, or cause erratic throttle behavior.

• How to Fix It - To avoid this issue, always connect Auto-Blip's ground wire to the same/similar ground point as the ECU.

When identifying the correct wires to tap, prioritize diagrams / written directions vs. pictures alone. Manufacturers often change wire colors, even during the middle of a production year, but wiill less frequently change a wire position/diagram. Additionally, wire colors will fade with time (e.g. a White wire will look Beige or Yellow).

In some vehicles, identifying the Clutch safety interlock switch can be trickiy as most cars have 2 switches at the Clutch. In this particular case, you are looking for the switch located at the bottom of the pedal travel (see installation manual for more details).

Some car manufactures will also have a secondary switch at the Brake pedal. You want to identify the switch with the Brake light signal wire. (see installation manual for more details).

Incorrect installation of the provided connectors is the most common installation fail. The connectors we provide (Posi-taps) are best in industry, but can be finicky to install. Instructions for the proper use of Posi-taps can be found in the downloads section above: Posi-Tap connectors user guide. Please read these instructions carefully as they may help you identify a possible installation error. It is very important that the pin inside the Posi-taps connector goes through the center of the wire you are tapping into. The smaller the wire gauge you are tapping, the higher the chance of a fail.

ECU faults or error codes are very rare as a result of the installation and/or use of Auto-Blip. If they do come up, most or all of them will self-clear once you correct the installation error. In very rare instances, the use of a hand held computer or coder may be necessary to clear the fault before completing a proper calibration.